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Why we fixate on — and fetishize — those behind the line – CITY Magazine. Arts. Music. Culture.

Last updated: February 26, 2026 10:20 pm
Published: 7 minutes ago
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There’s a reason chefs don’t translate cleanly into daylight.

They belong to the hours when the rest of the world is loosening its grip. When people are drinking, touching, confessing, unraveling. While everyone else is reaching for pleasure, chefs are manufacturing it. While the room fills, they disappear. That inversion matters.

Tension lives there.

Food is the first intimacy we ever experience. Before sex, before language, before memory — someone fed you. Warmth, salt, fat, sweetness. The body learned pleasure before it learned meaning. That memory never leaves. It waits, dormant, until something wakes it up.

Cooking does that.

The kitchen is not romantic. It’s loud and punishing and unforgiving. It smells like metal and meat and panic. It strips people down to instinct. What survives is timing, feel, restraint. Knowing when to wait. Knowing when to move. Knowing when to stop thinking altogether. Watching a chef work is watching someone make decisions with their body faster than language can keep up.

But what makes it ache, what makes it linger, is that it costs something every single time.

Chefs give themselves to moments they know will vanish. They chase perfection knowing it has no memory. They build something beautiful with the full understanding that it will be destroyed within minutes. That the only proof it ever existed is how someone else feels for a brief, unrepeatable second.

There’s no keeping that. No holding it. No slowing it down.

This is where sensuality lives.

Not in swagger. Not in myth. But in consent. In knowing exactly what this work takes and choosing it anyway. In the understanding that devotion won’t protect you, won’t soothe you, won’t promise longevity.

People don’t desire chefs because they’re mysterious or tortured or cool. We desire them because they’re willing to give themselves fully to something that will never stay. Because they accept impermanence without bargaining. Because they lock in while the rest of the world reaches for comfort.

That choice has a charge.

And if you’ve ever stood close enough to feel it, you already know: it isn’t safe or lasting, and that’s exactly the point.

Chefs don’t sell sex. They embody it. Perfectly timed and already gone.

NATASHA COTRUPI | PRIVATE CHEF / CONTENT CREATOR

Cotrupi came to cooking by way of neuroscience, trading lab benches for restaurant kitchens without much romance attached to the decision. She liked the methodical nature of the work. The repetition, the precision and the fact that skill compounds over time. In the lab, the end result moved away from her, destined for a pharmaceutical pipeline. In kitchens, the outcome stays close.

After working as a sous chef at Vern’s on Park Avenue, she stepped away from restaurant service and into private cheffing, building a parallel presence online along the way. Her following grew not through polish, but through candor — a clear record of someone learning, working and figuring it out in real time.

Cooking, for Cotrupi, is sensory. It’s how she connects with people.

“It feels very human,” she said. “It feels like the most human thing to do. To cook and eat and share food together.”

RACHEL PICCONE | PASTRY CHEF, FLOUR CITY BREAD

Piccone runs pastry at Flour City Bread, where days are dictated by laminated dough and margin for error measured in degrees and minutes. It’s repetitive work with real consequences. She carries it easily; not casually, but competently.

Baking was always the anchor. Piccone grew up doing it alongside her grandmothers and recognized early that this was the work that stuck. She came up through plated desserts, and it shows. Not in fuss, but in storytelling. In the reverse engineering of composing a bite on a plate. In the focused flow state of detail work. In knowing when to stop. What separates Piccone from the caricature of pastry precision is how she relates to control.

“The thinking lives in the hands,” she said.

Not as a rejection of structure, but as an understanding of when structure stops being useful. Recipes matter, but they’re only a starting point. Her ratio reflects that reality: 20% recipe, 80% judgment.

“You can never make the same exact thing twice, even if you’re following the same recipe,” she sai. “That’s what makes it special. You’re always working to make things better.”

And because the result is fleeting, the focus sharpens.

“You put everything into it,” she said, “because it’s only going to last for a moment.”

CHRIS CULLEN | CHEF / OWNER, WORK IN PROGRESS POP-UP + THE FORTHCOMING RESTAURANT DAMAS

Cullen has been cooking since he was 15 years old. Lento first, then in New York City. He spent four years inside Eric Ripert’s kitchen at Le Bernardin at every station, the last two years as sous chef. The work carried him outward (to the United Kingdom, his first local pop-up, Flor, Ernst in Berlin) before bending him back to the Finger Lakes. Now, alongside his partner, sommelier Kate Prokop, he’s been running the “IYKYK” pop-up concept Work in Progress while building toward their brick-and-mortar, Restaurant Damas.

What separates Cullen isn’t technique or ambition. It’s where he places authority — and he doesn’t believe it belongs to the chef.

“The ingredient already has an identity,” he said. “My job is to understand it before I decide what it needs.”

That thinking slows everything down, demands humility and requires relationships that can’t be rushed. Cullen has spent years with local farmers. Not negotiating or sourcing, but learning. Who grows the best herbs? Who understands tomatoes at their limit? Who is willing to experiment with seed, soil and time? The pork he’s working with comes from hogs raised by winemaker and farmer Ben Riccardi of Osmote: Duroc and Iberico crosses fed on grapes and nuts from the same land that produces the wine grapes. It’s one ecosystem, built deliberately to be a closed loop. Their work is not a transaction, but a shared belief.

Abundance, Cullen said, is dangerous.

“You can ruin something by trying to do too much with it.”

His menus are assembled like puzzles, shaped by the exact conditions of a given week. What keeps his ego in check is how fast the work disappears. Yesterday doesn’t buy him anything. Every service resets the stakes.

“You’re only as good as the next dish,” Cullen said.

He cooks without trying to dominate what’s in front of him, responding to it with reverence. He treats ingredients like something borrowed, not owned — something that took a season, a farmer, a risk to arrive. That level of attention costs time. It doesn’t scale. It asks for more patience than most people are willing to give.

But once you stand close to it, you understand the pull. This isn’t about leaving a mark. It’s about not wasting what you’ve been trusted with.

BILLY GUSHUE | CHEF / OWNER, FORNO TONY

What pulls you toward Gushue isn’t volume or bravado. It’s control — the quiet kind. Dough handled with confidence, then checked. Heat applied carefully. Movements fluid, restrained, intentional. You feel the pleasure in the discipline.

This food comes from family, but not as nostalgia softened for public consumption. It comes from repetition. Roman-style pizzette Gushue’s grandfather made. Handwritten recipes passed hand-to-hand. Meals cooked again and again, until they stopped being instructions and became instinct.

“We were trying to recreate these pizzette my grandpa used to make for us when we were kids,” Gushue said. “Out of nostalgia, I just wanted to eat one again.”

The first attempts failed. The obsession didn’t.

Gushue was always drawn to baking over cooking, for its precision and the way that proficiency has to be earned. He went to Rome a few years ago to learn how to do it properly, studying at Pinsa outside the city. What he brought back wasn’t a trend. It was posture.

“It was more important to us to stick to high-quality ingredients and do things in an authentic way,” he said.

Roman. Southern Italian. Unshaken.

The shop runs the same way the food does: family everywhere. Cousins cutting pizza with scissors, weighing each slice. An aunt scooping gelato, feeding people without ceremony.

“I think any Italian will tell you they like feeding people more than they like eating themselves,” Gushue said.

That’s the pull here. Care as power. Lineage as language. Pleasure earned, then extended. It doesn’t ask for your attention. It holds it with ease.

Read more on CITY Magazine

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