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“My role at Oxenham is to honour heritage while allowing it to evolve”

Last updated: January 26, 2026 11:45 am
Published: 3 months ago
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Bizweek: In vino veritas is often used to suggest that wine reveals the truth. You are often described as having grown up in the world of wines and spirits. Did this environment naturally shape your career path?

Melissa Doger de Speville: Very much so, although it was not something I consciously planned at first. I often say, half-jokingly, that I fell into it like Obelix fell into the cauldron. I grew up inside this family business, coming here as a child with my father and my uncles, observing how things were done, listening to conversations about production, clients and people. Wine and spirits were not just products; they were part of daily life, part of our culture and our values. That environment inevitably shapes you, whether you realise it or not.

That said, joining the family business was not my immediate ambition. I wanted to study, to experience something different, and to prove myself outside that framework. I went to South Africa with the aim of pursuing a career in the hotel sector. I therefore started a diploma in marketing, and at the end of my studies, I was asked to join the family business.

During my time in South Africa, I spent time training directly with winemakers. I worked in vineyards, in cellars, in sales, and on the ground. Those years were formative. What struck me most was discovering family-owned estates that shared the same values as ours: craftsmanship, respect for terroir, patience, and a deep passion for what they do. It made me realise that Oxenham’s story was part of a much broader culture of artisanship.

When I eventually returned to Mauritius and joined Oxenham in 2007, it felt like a natural continuation rather than a predetermined path. I brought back not only technical knowledge, but also a deeper understanding of what wine represents beyond the bottle: the people behind it, the land, the history and the emotions it carries. Over time, that upbringing, combined with my external experience, shaped my approach to the business. Today, my work is still guided by that same truth suggested by ‘in vino veritas’: wine reveals stories, values and authenticity, and my role is to respect that heritage while allowing it to evolve.

You chose South Africa for your studies. What did that period bring you, both professionally and personally?

South Africa was a defining chapter in both my professional and personal journey. I chose to study there mainly because it was closer to Mauritius. After completing my studies in marketing, I stayed on in South Africa to study wine, since, like I said, my dad wanted me to join Oxenham.

I was then constantly on the ground, training with winemakers, spending weeks or months at a time in vineyards, cellars and commercial teams. I wanted to understand every aspect of the value chain, from the land to the final consumer.

What left the strongest impression on me was the human dimension of the South African wine industry. Many of the estates I worked with were family-owned, much like Oxenham. They were run by people who saw themselves as artisans rather than industrial producers, deeply attached to their terroir and proud of their craft. That resemblance was striking. It helped me better understand my own family’s history and the foundations on which Oxenham was built.

Personally, that period taught me humility, discipline and patience. I saw how much time, precision and respect are required to produce a wine of quality. I also witnessed the evolution of South African winemaking over the years from a more generalised approach to a much more precise understanding of terroir, grape selection and climate. Today, I still return regularly to South Africa, often with my teams or hospitality partners, because it remains an incredible learning ground. Those years shaped my vision of wine not just as a product, but as a culture, a responsibility and a long-term commitment.

When did you officially join Oxenham, and how did your role evolve over time?

I officially joined Oxenham in 2007, after completing my studies and professional training in South Africa. At that stage, the company was already well established, but it was also entering a phase of expansion and transformation. I began my career within the group in brand management, with a strong focus on communication and brand positioning.

One of my first major responsibilities was the development of Le Connoisseur retail concept. At the time, we had a single boutique in Phoenix. My mandate was to structure and expand that retail presence, while also strengthening the way we communicated about our products. Over time, Le Connoisseur grew into a network of seven boutiques, becoming a key platform for education, discovery and direct engagement with consumers.

As my experience within the company deepened, my role evolved naturally. I became increasingly involved in the development of our local portfolio, including wines, rums and, later on, craft beers and spirits. I also took on responsibility for managing and developing relationships with international brands within our portfolio, such as champagnes, cognacs and wines from various regions.

A few years later, following a reorganisation within the family business, I moved further into the commercial side of the company, particularly within the hospitality sector. Today, my role is transversal: it sits at the intersection of strategy, marketing and sales, with a strong emphasis on fieldwork. I work closely with hotel and restaurant partners, commercial teams, production units and marketing agencies. This evolution reflects both the growth of the company and my own desire to remain closely connected to the reality of the market while contributing to long-term strategic direction.

What does a typical day look like for you today, given your strategic and operational responsibilities?

There is no such thing as a typical day, and that is precisely what I enjoy most about my work. My days usually start very early. I arrive at the office around 6 a.m., which is my quiet moment before the activity begins. It allows me to organise my thoughts, review priorities and spend time in the production areas before the teams arrive. From 7 a.m. onwards, the pace changes completely as the site becomes very busy.

My time is divided between several roles. Part of the day is spent in meetings with commercial teams to review the market, discuss strategies and align on priorities. I am also closely involved in marketing and brand development, working on new product concepts, communication strategies, public relations and coordinating with advertising agencies. Another important aspect of my day is being on the ground — visiting clients, accompanying commercial teams, and spending time in hotels and restaurants to understand their needs and realities.

“Wine reveals stories, values and authenticity, and my role at Oxenham is to respect that heritage while allowing it to evolve.”

I also stay connected to our production units, whether it is wines, spirits or craft beer, because understanding how products are made is essential to how we position and support them. On top of that, I am involved in social media and broader company strategy, which means switching constantly between operational and strategic thinking. The days are full and demanding, but that diversity keeps the work stimulating and meaningful.

What motivates you most in this dual role, which combines long-term strategy with hands-on involvement in the field?

The process of creating something meaningful and seeing it come to life from start to finish. I enjoy imagining a concept, building it step by step, and then taking it to the field to see how it functions in real conditions. Strategy is essential, but it only truly makes sense once it is confronted with reality, adjusted, refined and implemented alongside the teams.

I am particularly driven by projects where there is a strong story and a clear purpose. Thirsty Fox is a good example. It was not simply about launching another beer, but about creating a craft product with its own identity, values and quality standards. We tested, adjusted, questioned ourselves and sometimes faced scepticism, even internally. But being involved at every stage — from the initial idea to production, marketing, distribution and consumer feedback — is what gives me the greatest satisfaction.

Beyond individual products, what motivates me is working closely with people. Whether it is commercial teams, production staff, hotel partners or suppliers, I enjoy building bridges between vision and execution. Seeing a strategy adopted by the teams, understood by partners and ultimately embraced by consumers is what makes this dual role both challenging and deeply rewarding.

Thirsty Fox entered a competitive beer market. What made this project different from other players already present?

From the outset, we were very clear that Thirsty Fox was not about entering the market to compete head-on with mainstream beers. That was never the objective. The idea was to create something different, rooted in craftsmanship, quality and choice. We wanted to offer Mauritian consumers an alternative — a locally produced craft beer with personality and character.

What truly set the project apart was the way it was built. It started as a family initiative, with my cousins Fabien and Cédric – both trained in oenology abroad – working on recipes and conducting numerous tests in the laboratory. We took the time to experiment, taste, adjust and refine before even thinking about commercialisation. At the beginning, there was hesitation within the family, mainly because of the level of investment required and the fact that several similar ventures had previously failed in Mauritius. That forced us to be disciplined, thoughtful and very deliberate in our approach.

We also positioned Thirsty Fox in a different segment. Rather than offering a single product, we introduced a range — Amber, Weiss, Pale Ale and Lager — to encourage discovery and provide consumers with choice. Many Mauritians have travelled and experienced different beer styles abroad, and we felt the market was ready for that diversity. The response confirmed it. Despite being launched just before the Covid period, the interest grew quickly, with repeat purchases and strong acceptance, including in more rural areas where beer preferences are traditionally very entrenched.

Ultimately, what made Thirsty Fox different was not only the product itself, but the philosophy behind it: a locally made craft beer, produced with care, offering consistent quality, and designed to be enjoyed as part of a lifestyle rather than as a mass-market commodity.

Oxenham has also diversified into spirits. What was the thinking behind this move, and how does it reflect the group’s identity?

Yes, diversification into spirits was a natural extension of our expertise and our desire to innovate while remaining rooted in local craftsmanship. One of the most significant projects in this space is Pierre Poivre Gin, a premium gin distilled locally by my cousin Cédric. The idea was to create a spirit that truly reflects Mauritius, using botanicals that are both authentic and deeply connected to the island.

We developed three distinct expressions, featuring ingredients such as combava, butterfly pea and roselle. Each of these was carefully selected to express a particular aromatic profile while remaining true to local identity. Beyond the liquid itself, we paid close attention to the storytelling around the product. We collaborated with a Mauritian artist for the label design, ensuring that the visual identity was as meaningful as the spirit inside the bottle.

Sustainability and responsibility were also integral to the project. We partnered with Mauritius Wildlife, committing part of the project to the protection of endemic species. However, one of the major challenges we face in the spirits segment is communication.

Despite these constraints, diversification, however, into spirits has allowed us to further strengthen our local portfolio, expand our technical know-how and continue building products that go beyond consumption, focusing instead on culture, moderation and meaningful experiences.

How have Mauritian consumers evolved over the years in terms of taste, expectations and behaviour?

There has been a clear and gradual evolution in the behaviour and expectations of Mauritian consumers over the years. In the past, purchasing decisions were often driven by well-known labels or a sense of prestige — particularly when it came to wine, where certain regions or appellations were automatically associated with quality. Today, that mindset has shifted.

Consumers are far more informed and curious. They ask questions, want to understand what they are drinking, and are increasingly interested in authenticity rather than reputation alone. Many are eager to discover new regions, grape varieties and styles, provided they are guided and supported in that discovery. There is also a growing desire to learn, to understand terroir, production methods and the story behind a product.

Climate and lifestyle have also influenced preferences. Mauritius is hot and humid, and consumers are increasingly aware that lighter, fresher wines and more accessible styles often provide a better experience than heavy, high-alcohol reds. This has naturally led to a broader acceptance of whites, rosés and more balanced reds.

At the same time, there is a growing awareness around health, moderation and quality. Consumers are less inclined to drink for the sake of drinking and more focused on enjoyment, balance and experience. Overall, the evolution has been towards more thoughtful, curious and experience-driven consumption, which is encouraging for producers and distributors who value quality and storytelling.

What do hotels and restaurants expect from their partners today?

Today, hotels and restaurants expect much more than a supplier who simply delivers products. What they are really looking for is a partner who can support them operationally and strategically. This means being present, available and involved well beyond the point of sale.

One of the key expectations is training. When an establishment decides to list a wine, a spirit or a beer, its teams need to understand the product in order to present it confidently to guests. That requires regular training sessions, tastings and ongoing education. Hotels also expect support in promoting products through experiences — whether that involves pop-up bars, themed evenings, tastings, cocktail events or the presence of sommeliers and bartenders who can engage directly with guests.

There is also a strong operational dimension. Hospitality teams work under pressure, and they need partners who understand their realities, respond quickly and provide consistent follow-up. For us, that means investing heavily in human resources, with dedicated teams focused on events, training and on-the-ground support.

“I arrive at the office around 6 a.m., which is my quiet moment before the activity begins.”

Ultimately, hotels and restaurants are seeking long-term relationships built on trust, reliability and shared objectives. A true partner is one who accompanies them in their journey, helps elevate their offer and contributes to the overall guest experience, rather than simply supplying a product and moving on.

Training appears to be central to your approach. Why is it so important, and how do you implement it in practice?

Training is absolutely central to our approach, both internally and in our relationships with hotel and restaurant partners. Wine, beer and spirits are products that carry a great deal of nuance, and without proper understanding, it becomes very difficult for teams to communicate their value to customers.

In Mauritius, there is limited formal education dedicated specifically to wine and spirits, which means that companies like ours have a responsibility to invest in developing skills locally. We start by training our own teams, particularly those working in our Le Connoisseur boutiques, ensuring they understand not only the products but also their origins, production methods and stories. From there, these trained teams become valuable resources that we can mobilise to support the hospitality sector.

Training goes beyond theory. We organise regular tastings, masterclasses and on-the-ground sessions with sommeliers, bartenders and service staff. When possible, we also take training a step further by organising educational trips, particularly to South Africa, where participants can meet winemakers, visit vineyards and cellars, and see firsthand how terroir and climate influence a wine. This exposure transforms the way they understand and present products.

Ultimately, training builds confidence. A well-trained waiter or bartender is far more comfortable recommending a wine or explaining a beer style, and that confidence translates directly into a better guest experience. For us, education is not an added service; it is a long-term investment in quality, consistency and partnership.

Wine can sometimes feel intimidating to the general public. How do you make it more accessible and approachable?

Wine becomes intimidating when it is presented as something overly complex or reserved for experts. Our approach is to remove that pressure entirely. Wine is meant to be enjoyed, not analysed or judged. You do not need technical vocabulary or formal knowledge to appreciate a wine. What matters most is whether you enjoy it.

We encourage people to taste freely and trust their own preferences. There are no right or wrong choices. Two people can taste the same wine and have completely different reactions, and both are perfectly valid. Wine should open conversation, not create anxiety. It is about pleasure, sharing and allowing the wine to express itself naturally in the glass.

Storytelling also plays an important role. When wine is explained through simple language and connected to moments of life, a meal, a gathering or a memory, it becomes far more approachable. Once people understand that wine is not about performance but about enjoyment, curiosity replaces intimidation. That shift makes wine accessible to everyone, regardless of their level of experience.

Sustainability is becoming increasingly important for both consumers and businesses. How is this reflected at Oxenham?

Sustainability is no longer optional; it is a responsibility, particularly for a company like ours that has been rooted in Mauritius for several generations. At Oxenham, this commitment is reflected both in how we produce and in the causes we choose to support.

On an operational level, we have invested significantly in renewable energy. Today, around 60% of our energy needs are covered by photovoltaic panels, which has allowed us to reduce our environmental footprint in a tangible way. We are continuously looking at how to improve our production processes to make them more efficient and less resource intensive.

Beyond operations, sustainability is also embedded in our brands and projects. Through Thirsty Fox, we have actively supported environmental initiatives linked to marine conservation. Following the Wakashio oil spill, we felt it was important to act, not just observe. This led to the creation of initiatives focused on coral plantation, beach clean-ups and environmental awareness. Part of the proceeds from our beers is dedicated to these actions.

We also work closely with Mauritius Wildlife, particularly through our spirits projects, to support the protection of endemic species. For us, sustainability is not a marketing exercise. It is about giving back to the island, preserving what makes Mauritius unique and ensuring that local production goes hand in hand with environmental and social responsibility.

Are low- and no-alcohol products a growing trend, and how do you see this segment evolving in Mauritius?

Yes, and it’s one of the most notable shifts we’re seeing, especially among younger and more health-conscious consumers. Globally, the market for low- and no-alcohol beverages has grown rapidly, driven by changing lifestyles, greater awareness of health and wellness, and a cultural shift toward moderation without sacrificing social experiences. People today want to be part of social occasions, try new flavours and feel good about their choices — all without necessarily drinking alcohol.

In Mauritius, we are beginning to see that trend emerge as well. Although it’s still early days compared with some international markets, demand for products with lower alcohol content is clearly increasing. With Thirsty Fox, for example, we deliberately introduced lower-alcohol options alongside our core beers to respond to evolving customer preferences. Consumers appreciate having choices that fit different moods, occasions or personal wellness goals.

We’re also watching the developments in low- and no-alcohol wines and spirits with keen interest. Internationally, those segments are expanding quickly, and the quality of these products is improving significantly, making them genuinely enjoyable rather than just substitutes. As consumer curiosity and sophistication grow here, we expect demand for such options to continue rising as well.

For us, this trend isn’t about jumping on a fad. It’s about understanding where the market is headed and offering a portfolio that reflects not only quality and craftsmanship, but also relevance to people’s lives, whether they want a traditional wine, a craft beer, a premium spirit or something lighter.

Oxenham is now in its fourth generation. What elements of the family DNA have remained unchanged over time?

What has remained unchanged across four generations is a very strong sense of unity, humility and shared effort. Oxenham has always been built on the idea of working together, what my father often describes as ‘working épaule contre épaule’ (shoulder to shoulder). This is not just a phrase; it is something we live every day.

“Thirsty Fox was not simply about launching another beer, but about creating a craft product with its own identity, values and quality standards.”

Despite the company’s growth and diversification, we have remained a very hands-on family. We are present on the ground, involved in daily operations, and close to our teams. Whether it is opening the factory early in the morning, helping with loading, overseeing production or supporting teams during busy periods, there is no real separation between management and operational staff. Everyone contributes, and that creates a strong sense of belonging and mutual respect.

Another key element of our family DNA is transmission. Knowledge, passion and values are shared openly, from one generation to the next and across the company. Education has always been central, whether it is understanding how products are made, respecting craftsmanship or appreciating the responsibility that comes with producing alcohol. That continuity of values is, in my view, the main reason Oxenham has remained relevant and resilient over time.

While Mauritius remains central to your operations, Oxenham is also looking beyond the island. What are your regional ambitions?

Yes, while Mauritius remains at the heart of everything we do, we are also carefully exploring opportunities beyond our borders. For us, expansion is not about rapid growth for its own sake, but about extending the reach of products that carry a strong local identity and craftsmanship.

Thirsty Fox is already present in Réunion, where it has been on the market for about a year. The response has been encouraging, although craft beer presents specific challenges in terms of logistics and shelf life. Unlike mass-produced beers, craft products have a shorter lifespan, which means export strategies must be carefully adapted. At this stage, we are exploring alternatives such as packaging formats and distribution models that allow us to maintain quality while expanding geographically.

Beyond beer, we have also been exporting locally produced wines and spirits to parts of Africa for several years. These initiatives are driven by a desire to showcase Mauritian know-how and products that reflect our island’s identity. Expansion is approached cautiously, with a strong focus on sustainability, product integrity and long-term partnerships.

Ultimately, looking beyond Mauritius is about sharing what we do best while remaining faithful to our values. Growth must be controlled, coherent and aligned with the quality standards and philosophy that define Oxenham.

Mauritius has strict restrictions on alcohol advertising. How does this ban affect visibility for local producers, and what challenges does it create for brands like Oxenham?

Yes, this is a major challenge for us, particularly as a local producer. In Mauritius, advertising for alcohol is heavily restricted, which makes visibility extremely difficult, especially when launching new products. The paradox is that while we are not allowed to communicate in local media, consumers are constantly exposed to international alcohol brands through television broadcasts, sporting events and global sponsorships that we have no control over.

For a company like Oxenham, this is frustrating because our products are not just about consumption; they are about craftsmanship, heritage and responsibility. When we launch a locally made product, whether it is Thirsty Fox or Pierre Poivre Gin, there is a full story behind it: local production, Mauritian ingredients, collaboration with local artists, partnerships with organisations such as Mauritius Wildlife, and commitments to sustainability. Unfortunately, we are very limited in how we can tell that story to the public.

This lack of visibility is particularly challenging for artisanal and premium products, where communication is not about encouraging excessive consumption, but about explaining origin, quality and purpose. We fully understand and respect the public health rationale behind advertising restrictions, but there is a real imbalance when local producers, who invest responsibly and create value locally, cannot communicate, while international brands benefit from indirect exposure.

As a result, we rely heavily on alternative channels: on-the-ground engagement, tastings, events, training, word-of-mouth and partnerships with hotels and restaurants. These allow us to build awareness in a more organic and responsible way. However, it remains a constraint, and one that, in my view, deserves thoughtful discussion, particularly when it comes to supporting local craftsmanship, transparency and informed consumer choice.

Finally, how would you summarise your mission today, both personally and within the Oxenham group?

My mission is to create meaning around wines, beers and spirits by connecting people, places and stories. It is about respecting craftsmanship and heritage while allowing innovation to happen responsibly. At its core, my role is to bridge passionate producers with moments of genuine sharing, whether in a home, a restaurant or a hotel.

At the same time, it is about responsibility — towards our teams, our partners, our island and our consumers. We produce alcohol, but we promote a lifestyle rooted in quality, moderation and enjoyment. Remaining faithful to our family values while adapting to a changing world is what guides everything I do.

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