Babylonstoren’s Soetmelksvlei – an experience that showcases what 19 century farm life in South Africa was like – has been running for about a year now and it’s become a must on many a traveller’s bucket lists. I recently got shuttled into the past and could not get enough of this reimagined farm and ultimately, living museum’s incredible offerings.
After a mere 20-minute shuttle ride from Babylonstoren, the warm welcome at Soetmelksvlei instantly had me feeling right at home. A quick cinematic rundown of the living museum’s offering allowed me and my fellow guests to orientate ourselves and soon, we all scattered into different directions, eager to explore. Scrolling along, a little ginger cat threw herself into the greenery lining the pathway that led to the stables where donkeys, sheep and mules were hiding in the shade. The large tree to my right held a basket swing, perfect for a toddler to fall asleep in, and a windpump brought movement to a romantic, mountain backdrop. As my nose caught the whiffs of freshly baked bread coming from the kitchen, I realised: This truly was a step back in time. A day on the farm as it most likely would have been in the 19 century.
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Enormous trees offered shade for geese and guests alike and as the bell rang, families and friends streamed to the table where roosterkoek was being served. A black board indicated time slots for different activities at Soetmelksvlei – from cow connections and cream separation to kraal tours and milling demonstrations. Not to mention ox wagon rides!
LISTEN TO THE PODCAST EPISODE: A STEP BACK IN TIME WITH BABYLONSTOREN’S MUSEOLOGIST, ELSA VOGTS
Taking off my shoes in front of what used to be the manor house back in the day, I was amazed at how intricate details like a scarf hanging on a hook by the door and half-eaten rusks in the tearoom awakened my senses. Vivid sights and sounds of a bygone era played in my head as I walked through the beautiful, storytelling farmhouse. Every element has been carefully curated to make it seem as if the family had just stepped out after a delightful morning tea, attending to whichever farm chores they had planned for the day.
Light streamed in through large windows, playing with vintage curtains, and I could hear the wooden floors creak underneath my feet. The home was peppered with all kinds of hobbyist items – from mom’s needlework and dad’s fireside reading to children’s experiments and artworks.
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Stepping through to the study, various artifacts were neatly placed to make it seem as if I’d arrived just a minute too late to meet the man of the house. A large bone lay on a blanket underneath the desk – clearly the family’s loving canine’s favourite spot.
In the large kitchen – the heart of the home – typical South African moerkoffie was waiting on a tray – another special experience worth having whilst visiting Soetmelksvlei.
The bedrooms were just as meticulously curated – from a vintage bed warmer and a baby cot in the main bedroom to a tin of marbles and fishing rods in the boy’s room and dolls, half-painted water colour pictures and beautiful knits in the girl’s.
A slow stroll through the beautiful farm shop is another must. As kids gleefully laughed and splattered in the farm dam, I made my way inside, curious about what I might find. From vintage-inspired children’s toys to the most beautiful knits, throws and felt and straw hats, you’re bound to find a souvenir fit for every family member here. Beautiful Soetmelksvlei postcards, hobby horses, vintage sweet treats and incredible locally made candles bring nostalgia to life in this beautiful space, making it the ultimate place to shop for gifts.
In conjunction with Babylonstoren, Soetmelksvlei offers an array of workshops throughout the year – from crocheting and quilting to making your own milk stool from scratch. They also have daily blacksmith and carpentry demonstrations and a visit to their water powered mill for a milling demonstration is a must. The working mill has been built according to 19 century specifications and the flour milled from here is used for all baking purposes on the farm. In addition to this, Soetmelksvlei also offers daily demonstrations on how to distill witblits.
At the Old Cellar, which holds numerous old-world artifacts, there is a beautiful library and an indoor playhouse – mirroring the manor house – for kids to explore. A trampoline bed, veggie cushions and more ensure endless enjoyment, while frog-inspired reading nooks lure little ones who’d like to lay low for a bit into its comfy nest-like structures.
As my visit slowly neared its end, I entered the Old Stables Restaurant for a well-deserved lunch after the morning’s explorations. There, a harvest-style lunch awaited, with a few meat dishes simmering in pots over the fire as guests dished for themselves. Three, four freshly baked breads with homemade farm butter and jams served as the perfect appetizer, followed by delicious seasonal salads and vegetables straight from the farm. It was the epitome of farm to table dining and as I sat sipping on a glass of Babylonstoren Mourvèdre Rosé, the laughter of kids playing outside was the ultimate proof that Soetmelksvlei is the perfect destination for a family day out.
P.S. Don’t miss out on The Old Stables Restaurant’s ice cream! Made from the farm’s very own water buffaloes’ milk, it’s rich and creamy and most definitely right at the top of my list where favourite desserts are concerned.
Soetmelksvlei is a wonderful celebration of ingenuity and self-sufficiency, honouring the legacy of artistry. It’s a place where families can come to learn and relax; a place where the fast pace of life is replaced with a day of simple, slow living. Apart from that, visitors learn crafts which not only builds confidence but also helps to keep the crafts alive.
A shuttle runs between Babylonstoren and Soetmelksvlei every 15 minutes, departing Babylonstoren from 08:30 to 13:00 and returning from Soetmelksvlei from 11:00 with the last shuttle at 17:00.
Whilst Soetmelksvlei is wheelchair friendly (they also have a wheelchair available at the Pakhuis Reception), they do not have dedicated staff to escort guests.
Soetmelksvlei is a working farm with open water, machinery and farm animals, so keep an eye on the kids and be mindful of the animals.
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